Twelve to sixteen plump mussels from the Galician coast, prepared in escabeche - one of the most genuine sauces in Spain - with wine vinegar, garlic, bay leaf, and spices. La Narval fries them under careful temperature control so the mussels stay whole rather than blowing out, which is the difference between a good tin and a sad one. Spicy but civilized. Slice up half an onion, add tomato and these mussels, and toss with pasta and oregano.
